12 Apr 2021

Hair texture: What Is It and How To Work With It


Your hair texture determines a lot about the way you can style your hair. There are three ways to define your hair texture, these include; fine hair, medium hair + thick and coarse hair. Knowing your hair type is the first step to achieving that silky salon style at home.

So how do you determine your hair texture? It’s simple.

In this blog post, we will explore how to understand your hair texture and get the most out of your hair. We will also go into what hairstyles work best for specific hair textures. Understanding your hair means you can choose styles that enhance its natural beauty and health, instead of fighting against it!

The first thing to note is that hair texture is not really about whether your hair is curly, kinky or straight (professionals refer to that as hair ‘type’) or whether you have thin or thick hair as that refers to the amount of hair you have.

Texture is really to do with the width of your hair, whether it’s fine, medium or coarse and the way it behaves (or doesn’t!) because of its width and structure. 

Fine Hair VS Course Hair: Textures Explained

Your hair's texture type is determined by the shape of your hair follicles. Understanding your hair texture is the first step in achieving your ultimate hair goals. 

It dictates how well your hair holds styles, how it reacts to products, and even what kind of haircuts will look best on you. The characteristics of the three types of hair textures include fine, medium, and coarse hair. Each texture has its own unique needs and benefits from specific care routines to make the most of its natural beauty.

1. Fine Hair

Blonde woman with fine hair


Fine hair is characterised by the diameter of each individual hair strand being thin, therefore giving off the appearance of having not a lot of hair. However, the good news is that contrary to popular belief, people with fine hair tend to have MORE hair than people with thick hair. Thin hair can have the appearance of looking softer and more feminine than other textures. 

The problem with fine hair is that it’s fragile and can be easily damaged. People with fine hair mainly complain about three things; lack of volume, oiliness and the difficulty they experience in holding a style. They are often guilty of using two much hairspray and other product -  hands up if this is you! Structurally fine hair only has two hair layers – a cortex and a cuticle.

2. Medium Hair

Woman with a bob and medium hair texture


Medium hair texture is thicker than fine hair, it‘s the most common hair type and usually covers the scalp very well. The positive of this hair texture is that it’s not as fragile as fine hair and can be styled easily, straight hair, waves or curls are perfect for this style and will hold well. Medium hair has more body and bounce compared to other hair types. Structurally, medium textures usually have two layers – the cortex and cuticle – and may contain the medulla which is the inner layer of hair which builds thickness in the hair. 

3. Thick or Coarse Hair

Woman with black hair and thick hair texture


This hair texture is strong because structurally it contains all three hair layers – the cortex, cuticle and medulla. The medulla, which is the innermost layer of the hair shaft is actually a series of empty spaces, filled with air and protein. This hair texture’s main drawback is that it usually takes longer to dry than others and can be very resistant to various chemical treatments. It can however tolerate heat well and resist breakage better than fine or medium hair.


Can You Change Hair Texture?

Hair texture is determined by your genes in the same way as eye colour is and there’s not a lot you can do about it, although your hair can change after puberty and during pregnancy. 

However, there is one thing that will make your hair thicker – and that’s colour or more accurately, bleach! But before you fine haired ladies all rush out to get your hair bleached, remember it can be a double edged sword. 

Bleaching also makes your hair more prone to breakage and those pesky split ends so think about the trade off before doing it and always put your hair in the hands of a professional.

So what can you do to make coarse hair silkier and softer and fine hair thicker without risking it? Product and styling tools would be the answer.

How to Make Hair Silky

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Megan Zitzke (@hairbymeganzitzke) on

If you have coarse hair be generous with the conditioner – use Argan oil liberally and use a heated styling tool to help seal your hair for a glossy finish. As your hair is thick you can use these tools on high heat.

How to Make Your Hair Thick

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Emme Hair (@emme.hair) on

If you have fine hair and want it to appear thicker use product that adds volume. Condition lightly and although it’s tempting, try not to wash your hair every day to minimize damage which can make hair look even thinner and stringy. Girls with thin hair need to use styling tools on their lowest heat setting, again to minimize damage.

Best Cuts for Different Hair Textures

Every hair texture has a different haircut that will enhance it’s natural beauty. Making sure you have the right haircut for your texture will provide you with the perfect style you’ll love. 

Haircuts for Very Fine Hair

Short structure bobs or lobs are great for people with very fine hair as these will create a thicker look. The best thing about bobs is that you can pick any length that suits your face shape and style from ear to collar bone. Bob hairstyles are so hot right now, so take advantage of your fine hair and change your style. 

Haircuts for Fine Hair

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Hailey Rhode Bieber (@haileybieber) on

If you have fine hair and want to find a hairstyle that will compliment your hair texture well, opt for a style with texture and layers. Adding some texture and layers will give your flat hair more life and movement which creates a thicker look.

If body and volume are your goals and you prefer your strands long, you can simply ask your hairstylist to add a bit of texture on the ends. Think light, slightly feathered layers that won’t weigh your strands down. 

Top tip: Blunt, all-one-length ends will only highlight the thinness of your hair, so stay away.

Haircuts for Medium Hair

Having medium textured hair gives you the most flexibility with your cut and style. You can go short to long and generally opt for choppy texture or a smooth result. What will determine this more is if you have curly, wavy or straight hair.

Haircuts for Thick Hair

Most people would consider a full head of thick hair a blessing, but figuring out what to do with it all can be a challenge and you can often leave a hair appointment with your hair still feeling heavy. One of the best haircut tips for those with thick manes is to ask for layers. Textured layers are a great way to manage thick hair because they add plenty of movement to your mane and minimize the thickness of your hair. To make this cut work even better for you, you can also ask your stylist to thin out your hair with thinning shears. When it comes to styling, if you want to create the illusion of thinner hair, you need to section parts off. Jlo is a master of a good old half up ‘do to help her hair seem less thick.

Haircuts for Wavy or Frizzy Hair

If your hair has more bend to it than pin-straight strands, but less curve than a curl, welcome to the wavy hair club. Natural waves are as versatile as they are stunning, but depending on dozens of factors (like the weather, the season, and haircare products), they can be tricky to style.

If you have naturally wavy or frizzy hair, try making your frizz part of your hairstyle by opting for a long, wavy bob or shoulder-length locks. This style looks great when tousled and a little messy, so you won’t have to constantly worry about taming frizz and the added length will help weigh your hair down and keep it sleek.

Haircuts for Curly Hair 

For those with curly hair, it's important to remember that the length will shrink up more than expected. When you go to your stylist, always have in your mind how much length you want removed, and always make sure to err on the side of less is more. Some people gain as much as 5 inches in length when their hair is wet, and it can be easy to get carried away if you're not careful.

Despite what you might have been told growing up, as with thick hair, layers are a curly haired girl’s best friend. A lot of people with curly hair have barely any layers at all. Usually, this is because they've either been botched in the past, or out of the fear that if too much weight is removed then their hair will be big and puffy. On the contrary, if not enough weight is removed, then you'll be left with the dreaded triangle head.

Curly hair needs layers to move. Ask your stylist to cut vertical layers for movement. This technique will also ensure that the hair won’t have any strong or hard lines in it.


Style Your Hair to Perfection Now You Know Your Hair Texture

Now you have correctly determined your hair texture, follow the tips in this blog to achieve gorgeous, healthy looking hair. 

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Love Your Style, the VS Sassoon Team x